Cho Oyu, Trilogy Expedition

Climb | Ride | Run

10/06/2009

Chapter 12


Simone Moro final declaration

Chapter 11


Simone Moro & Lizzy Hawker at Island Peak

09/30/2009

Chapter 10


Final Report

English | Italian | German


TNF-Cho-Oyu-ART-for-print_purple-sky-final



English

We cannot live our dreams by the rules which others have imposed upon us.

An exploration and adventure is born and grows from the depth of our soul, from the deepest and most free part of ourselves. The Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition was born in this way. It is the result of a common dream, a shared energy and strength concentrated on one mountain to realise a common project, and yet within this for each to be able to realise each his own personal dream and ambition. These hopes and dreams have been based on the values of friendship, accepting the risks and our responsibilities, and respecting the rules laid down by the authorities.

To climb an 8000m mountain, to open a new route, to descend by snowboard from the summit and to run or ride by bike to where the journey began (Kathmandu), without question must be undertaken within a timing which respects the delicate and fundamental requirements of our project. This timing must not, and cannot be restricted, for such restriction would increase the risk and altogether change the spirit and nature of our project. To our sadness this is exactly what has happened during these last days, without hope that the situation will change. The problem is the sudden and unplanned decision of the Chinese authorities to categorically close the border between Nepal and Tibet. No entries into Tibet are allowed, even if the necessary permissions and permits have already been obtained. From the moment that the Chinese made their non-negotiable decision they started to play a game with the dates. Every day the date of the border opening has changed, slipping later and later. Today we had the news that the 10th October would be the first possible date of entry, but even now no assurance that this would finally be definite. For us, the 25th October would be the last possible day for our expedition to leave from the base camp of Cho Oyu, due to our professional and personal commitments. This means that we would be forced to accept to make our expedition, with its three very diverse elements, in only 15 days (including the time to make the journey to base camp and to return to Kathmandu). For sure this is a certain ‘craziness’.

If we played the game in this way we would give a bad example, and we would not show to others the spirit by which we choose to live. We would be forced to accept a very evident risk and the huge expense of our expedition would be paid to make a fool’s game. We would have little hope of realising our dream in the way we would choose and in its entirety – to climb to the summit, to make a snowboard descent and to return to our beginnings by running or cycling. So with sadness we categorically say ‘no’ – we don’t accept even in realising our dream that we should be forced to be contrary to our spirit. We would deny our integrity and self respect if we allowed ourselves to accept ‘outside’ influence and to be forced to play a game that is not ours. We had respected and obeyed the rules regarding permit, visas etc. and we cannot now accept to have different rules, timings and conditions to be imposed.

For each of us we feel we are not ‘on holiday’ at the expense of our sponsors and we will neither allow ourselves to be pressured by eventual comments from the press, the media, from the mountain community or from our friends. Not one of us wants to play with destiny, hoping to realise in an impossible time the dream that we have so long prepared. We have taken the decision to ‘freeze’ our project of the Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition. We gently say ‘no thank you’ to the game the Chinese authorities wish us to play, and we save financial commitment of our sponsor who even in such difficult economic time has supported us, believed in us and given us this opportunity. We return home altogether, without each rushing to invent a last minute project, even though the opportunity would be here for each of us. Individual achievements here and now would only save our individual reputations, but would not be in keeping with our common spirit. In this way, returning home as a team, we hope to respect what our deep values and spirit tells us to do.

Without doubt we are sad to temporarily ‘break’ our exploration and dream, but we are proud that we were easily able to make a common decision. We have been a true team from the first days, and are now a true team in taking this difficult decision.

For me, in 41 expeditions I have never accepted unrealistic conditions to be imposed upon me or to allow my values to become part of another’s ‘game’. I am happy and proud that also this time, I and my friends, did not fall into the trap of blindly following ambition in a way not true to ourselves.

I take this opportunity to deeply The North Face who have supported our project and who have respected the decisions that we have had to take. I also would like to thank all the team of the Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition for demonstrating unity and friendship in every moment of our adventure. Our dream and exploration is not ‘over’ but only postponed, probably until next autumn 2010 – in this way we keep to the soul of our project and maintain our personal integrity, self-respect and obey the rules. Even though we are each of us a little sad and hurt, this piece of life we take back home is a gift that teaches us that deep within we have something precious – as un-negotiable as the imposed closure of Tibet.


Italian

Non si possono vivere i propri sogni facendosi dettare le regole del gioco dagli altri. Un’avventura, una esplorazione, nascono dal profondo della propria anima, dalla parte libera ed irrazionale di noi stessi. La Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition è stata la materializzazione di un sogno comune, una condivisione di forze e di energie, che hanno trovato in una montagna il punto ove realizzare ambizioni comuni e personali basati sul sentimento di amicizia, rispetto delle regole, accettazione dei rischi e delle responsabilità.
Scalare una montagna di 8000 metri, aprire una via nuova, scendere con lo snowboard dalla cima, correre a piedi o in bicicletta fino al punto di partenza del progetto, comporta una programmazione ed il rispetto di tempistiche delicate e fondamentali che non devono e non possono trovare costrizioni che elevino i rischi, ne amplificano e ne snaturino il senso. Questo è ciò che negli ultimi giorni è purtroppo accaduto in modo rocambolesco ed inesorabile alla nostro progetto, a causa dei provvedimenti restrittivi presi dal governo cinese che in modo improvviso, perentorio, e non negoziabile ha chiuso le frontiere col Tibet, impedendo a chiunque di entrare in quel territorio anche se muniti di visti d’ingresso e regolari permessi. E’ così iniziato il balletto sulle date e sulla durata di questa chiusura cinese ed oggi ci è giunta notizia che il giorno 10 Ottobre dovrebbe essere il primo giorno di potenziale ingresso in Tibet (tutti i giorni questa data ha subito variazioni e slittamenti). Il 25 di ottobre sarebbe l’ultimo giorno utile di permanenza sul Cho Oyu per la nostra spedizione a causa della data fissata per il volo di rientro e per impegni professionali e personali fissati da tempo. Ciò significa che dovremo accettare di realizzare una spedizione con tre differenti attività e programmi in soli 15 giorni compresi i tempi di trasferimento per e dal campo base. Una follia!! Un pessimo insegnamento da dare, un’accettazioni di rischi evidenti, una spesa elevata per un partita persa in partenza se considerata nel completamento di tutti e tre differenti progetti (scalata, snowboard e bike/run a Kathmandu). Allora diciamo NO! Non ci stiamo a farci condizionare così anche nella realizzazione del nostro sogno. Sarebbe davvero una pessima dimostrazione di autostima farsi prendere per il naso e per i fondelli da chi vuole imporre le proprie regole, tempi e condizioni contravvenendo a quelle fino a ieri annunciate e da noi rispettate. Non ci sentiamo in vacanza a spese degli sponsor e neppure condizionati dagli eventuali commenti di stampa ed amici. Nessuno di noi vuole tentare la sorte e sperare di realizzare in tempi quasi impossibili ciò che per anni abbiamo preparato e sognato. Congeliamo il progetto Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition, diciamo no grazie alle autorità cinesi, salviamo i soldi di chi ha creduto in noi nonostante la difficile congiuntura economica e, portando rispetto a ciò che la ragione e la morale ci impone, torniamo a casa tutti assieme senza escogitare progettini di ripiego e salva faccia individuali.
Siamo ovviamente tristi sul lato sportivo ed esplorativo ma fieri di aver trovato in questa decisione un accordo comune e totale. Un bel team sin dall’inizio, un grande team anche in questa decisione. In 41 spedizioni non mi era mai capitato di farmi dettare le condizioni e prendere per il naso in questo modo e sono contento che anche questa volta il sottoscritto e chi è con me, non è caduto nel tranello della cieca, sorda, irrazionale ambizione.
Ringrazio vivamente la The North Face per aver supportato tutto il nostro progetto e rispettato le decisioni, (anche quest’ultima) che abbiamo preso. Ringrazio tutto il team della Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition per aver dimostrato unità ed amicizia in ogni secondo di questa avventura. La nostra esplorazione di gruppo subisce solo una posticipazione temporale, probabilmente l’autunno 2010, mantenendo integra l’anima ed il rispetto per le regole e della propria persona. Seppur un po’ triste e mortificante, questo pezzo di vita che porto a casa mi regala ed insegna anche qualcosa di prezioso e non negoziabile, proprio come l’improvvisa chiusura del Tibet….


German

Man kann nicht die eigenen Träume leben, wenn man sich die Spielregeln von anderen auferlegen lassen muss. Das Abenteuer und die Erkundung von Neuem hat seinen Ursprung tief in unserer Seele, jenem Teil von uns der frei und irrazional seine Wege geht. In der „Cho Oyu Trilogy“ Expedition hatte sich ein gemeinsamer Traum materialisiert, der Traum von einem Berg wo unter Einsatz gemeinsamer Kräfte durch echte Freundschaft, gegenseitigen Respekt aber auch Einschätzung der verschiedenen Risiken persönliche Ziele wahr werden können.
Die Besteigung eines 8000ers über eine neue Route, die Abfahrt mit dem Snowboard vom Gipfel, der Lauf und die Radfahrt vom Basislager zurück nach Kathmandu bedürfen einer genausten logistischen Einplanung der Zeiten, die sich in keinster Weise verschieben dürfen zumal sich andernfalls die Risiken erhöhen bzw. das Vorhaben selbst grundlegend verändern würden. Genau das hatte sich leider in den letzten Tagen in Form sich überstürtzender Ereignisse zugetragen als die Chinesische Regierung kurzerhand den definitiven Entschlussd fasste die Grenzen zu Tibet für alle Ausländer zu schliessen, selbst für jene die seit langem mit einem Einreisevisum und einem Climbingpermit ausgestattet sind. Es folgte ein langwieriges Hin und Her verschiedenster Informationen zum Einreisedatum bis uns heute, nachdem sich das Datum zur möglichen Einreise täglich änderte, die Nachricht erreichte, dass die Chinesen voraussichtlich den 10. Oktober hierfür festsetzten. Allerdings hatten wir den 25. für die Abreise vom Basislager vorgesehen, zumal einige unserer Mitglieder bereits langfristig festgesetzten Termine in der Heimat verpflichtet sind. Das hiesse akzeptieren zu müssen, drei grundverschiedene Aktivitäten in nur 15 Tagen inklusive der Trasferten zu realisieren. Der reinste Wahnsinn!!! Wir möchten anderen kein schklechtes Vorbild geben, noch uns einem erhöhtem Risiko am Berg aussetzen. Auch möchten wir unser Geld nicht in eine Sache verprassen, die sich unter diesem Zeitdruck nicht realisieren lässt (Erstdurchquerung, Abfahrt mit dem Snowboard und Rückkehr im Lauf und auf dem Rad). Deshalb sagen wir kathegorisch: NEIN! Wir lassen uns bei der Umsetzung unserer Träume von niemandem konditionieren! Wir lassen uns nicht weiters von jemandem an der Nase herumführen, der die eigenen Zeitvorgaben bricht an die wir uns bisher gehalten haben. Wir wollen keinen Urlaub auf Kosten unserer Sponsoren machen und lassen uns auch nicht durch die Kommentare der Presse und Freunde beeinflussen. Niemand von uns will das Schicksal herausfordern indem er innerhalb unrealistischer Zeitabstände das zu realisieren versucht, wovon er 5 ganze Jahre lang geträumt hat.
Wir frieren das „Cho Oyo Trilogy“-Projekt folglich bis auf weiteres ein und lehnen die Entscheidung der chinesischen Regierung ab. Wir sparen das Geld jener die an uns trotz der schwierigen wirtschaftlichen Lage glauben und zollen dem was uns unserer Verstand sagt den nötigen Respekt. Wir kehren gemeinsam heim ohne irgendwelche Alternativpläne zu schmieden mit denen sich der eine oder andere noch schnell seine Ehre retten könnte.
Es tut uns freilich leid in unserem Sports- und Erforschungsgeist verhindert worden zu sein, dennoch sind wir stolz eine gemeinsame Entscheidung getroffen zu haben, mit der jedes Expeditionsmitglied einverstanden ist. Wir sind seit Anfang in unserem Teamgeist verknüpft und sind es auch in der dieser Entscheidung.
Ich habe mich während der vergangegen 41 Expeditionen niemals irgendwelcher Konditionen gebeugt, noch an der Nase herumführen lassen und bin daher froh dass wir uns auch dieses mal nicht zum Opfer einer blinden und irrazionalen Neigung machen.
Wir bedanken uns herzlichst bei der „The North Face“ sowohl für die Unterstützung unserer Projekte, als auch die Respektierung aller unserer Entscheidungen (auch dieser letzten). Ich bedanke mich beim gesamten Team der „Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition“ für den Zusammenhalt und die Freundschaft während dieses Abenteuers. Unsere Expedition wird voraussichtlich in den Herbst nächsten Jahres, 2010, verschoben. Obgleich etwas traurig, so bringe ich mit dieser Erfahrung eine doch sehr wesentliche Lehre mit nach Hause, die gleichermassen unumstösslich ist wie die plötzliche Schliessung der Grenzen zu Tibet.


- The Team

09/29/2009

Chapter 9c


Chhukung 4730 meters, Khumbu Valley - Nepal.

Lat. N 27°54’14.08”
Long. E 086°52’17.81”

We just came back from Island Peak 6189 m. We are editing the videos of the three days spent approaching and on the mountain. We reached the summit yesterday at 2,30 pm and than we established an high camps at 6000 m, spent the night to better acclimatize and get ready for the future high camps.

Today we received the news from Nima Nuru, our trekking agent in Kathmandu, that had been confirmed the closure of the Tibet/Nepal boarder till the 8th October. So we decided to remain 1 week more here in the upper Khumbu to continue and finalize our acclimatisation for a future fast ascent of Cho Oyu.

So the trilogy expedition will continue even with compressed time. Our goal remain to climb Cho Oyu, snowboard down from the summit, ride and run back to Kathmandu. We will climb other peak here around Chhukung village and spend other night around 6000 meters. We want to arrive in Cho Oyu base camp (even late due the Chinese authority decision) ready and motivated. We just hope that the weather condition will be good for a safe attempt.

- Simone Moro

09/28/2009

Chapter 9b


Simone Moro & Emilio Previtali at Island Peak base camp

Chapter 9


Darkness is.

You wake up in the middle of the night, it is dark. You reach for the switch, but there is no switch, there is no light, there is no electricity. It’s dark, you can’t see your own hand, you don’t know where you are. There is no chance, you will have to sit there, until dawn will come.
You haven’t felt like that since when you were a child. You look around: there are no led lights in the room, no street lights filtering through the window, nothing to help. It took you a misty night in the Khumbu valley to remind you what darkness is.

Being unsure of what to do has been our darkness in the last few days, here in Chhukhung.
Climbing the Island Peak was supposed to be the last step in our acclimatization process, the last bit of our preparation before moving to the Cho Oyu B.C., ready for the climb. Then somebody turned the lights off. The border was shut; we are not welcome in China. We are ready for the Cho Oyu, we can see it – it’s close – but we are not allowed into Tibet.

Then a mysterious hand turns on the main switch again. The border will open on October 8. We’ll reach Base Camp only later than we planned. We will be able to spend less time than we expected on the mountain, but we will be were we planned to be, in the light, with our dreams.

- The Team

Chapter 8


Scherzo Cinese

Le cose ovviamente non possono andare lisce almeno per una volta… Infatti anche stavolta è arrivata la sorpresina. I cinesi hanno chiuso le frontiere dal 24 settembre fino al giorno 8 ottobre. Nessuno, proprio nessuno ossia spedizioni e turisti possono entrare in Tibet per la ricorrenza del 60° anniversario della proclamazione della repubblica popolare Cinese il 1° ottobre 1949 e le celebrazioni organizzate a Piazza Tienanmen. Le spedizioni presenti ai campi basi verranno lasciate i loco ma non saranno permessi spostamenti in Jeep o altro al di fuori dalla montagna su cui stanno operando. Per noi questa notizia è uno sgambetto perché riduce a soli 15/giorni la possibilità di tentare e salire sul Cho OYU. Infatti il 30 ottobre abbiamo il volo di rientro in Italia da Kathmandu e ciò significa lasciare il campo base tibetano il giorno 25 o 26 ottobre. Se consideriamo che vorremmo rientrare a piedi o in Mountain bike e non in Jeep questo significa che abbiamo bisogno di tempo.

In queste ore stiamo decidendo il da farsi. Saremmo dell’idea di cancellare la spedizione al Cho Oyu e tentare una montagna qua in Nepal, magari vicino a dove già siamo (siamo a Chhukung sotto la sud del Lhotse). Vorremmo però essere sicuri che i Cinesi non ci chiedano comunque i soldi del permesso del Cho Oyu perché in quel caso butteremmo al vento circa 40.000 dollari. Inoltre essendo una MULTISPORT expedition stiamo valutando di avere un opzione che permetta ad Emilio di scendere in Snowboard, a Lizzy di correre a Kathmandu e a me ed Hervè di effettuare una prima salita o via nuova. Forse io ed Hervè saremmo i più facilitati nella scelta perché qua c’è tutto da fare…. Ma non vogliamo condizionare troppo i nostri compagni di spedizione. Lasciateci qualche ora e decideremo…

Ciao

Simone

 


Visualizzazione ingrandita della mappa

 

Chinese Play

Also this time we have something bad. Another unexpected news that change our programs. The Chinese decided to close the Tibetian border from 24th September till 8th October due the 60° anniversary of the Chinese Republick born the 1st Octobre 1949 and the celabrations organized in Tienanmen Square. So again and again the Chinese decided to close the country from the rest of the world and all the Turist and visitors that already planned and paid to enter in Tibet are now obliged to stay far till the 8th October ( hoping they will not decide for another late date). So we are excluded to Tibet till that date and our remaining time for a Cho Oyu climb and run back to Kathmandu is too short ( we have to fly back the 30th October). In these hours we are discussion an alternative project. We would like to cancel the Cho Oyu expedition and focus on an alternative peak here around Chhumjung. There are a lot of peaks and big mountains and new routes to climb... But it is not so easy to combine also a snowboard descent (as Emilio like to do) and a Mountain bike / run way back to Kathmandu. We are also still afraid to loose the money for the Cho Oyu climbing permit and in that case the problems will be bigger. Let’s see what will happen in the next hours/days. In the meantime we continue to acclimatize here around…

Ciao

Simone

Chapter 7


Simone Moro & Hervé Barmasse: Cho Oyu, Trilogy Expedition


09/24/2009

Chapter 6


Hello!

_MG_5645


I am in Chhukkung again, 4720 m, Khumbu Valley, Nepa. I don’t honestly remember how often I have been here; maybe more than 30, but for sure every time I was loaded with energy, dreams and the will to realize a new adventure.

_MG_5562



The last time I have been here I was with Denis Urubko, acclimatizing to climb the Makalu. Maybe it is the nice hospitality of the Ama Dablam view lodge that helps us in acclimatizing, last time it worked, because we succeded on Makalu, and hopefully we will succeed again. This time my friend Lopsang opened the lodge in advance to host the Trilogy expedition team.
Everybody feels good, the vibe in the team is great and we are following the planned schedule.

_MG_5503

_MG_5668


Today we did another bit of our acclimatization schedule, we reached the top f the Chukkung Ri 5,555 meters and we are now back in the lodge, having the delicious Veg Fried Rice that Lopsang prepares.
Tomorrow will move to the B.C of the Island peak; the plan is to climb it and to spend one night on top.

Stay tuned for more…
Ciao, Simone.

- Simone Moro
09/23/2009

Chapter 5


Chhukung

Subscribe to this Blog